Category Archives: Golf Tuition and Tips

Time To Practise! | Golf Needs Tiger

Good morning – another great day in West London!

Great to see the sun shining and also to see so many people coming to play golf over the last few days. This often happens after major tournaments and the combination of this and the good weather means that the golf season has officially started – it’s time to get out there and practise!

Of course it’s also the Easter Holidays and we are running some great camps for the kids over at Dukes Meadows – please click on the link on my homepage for full details of these or contact me at james@jamesironsgolf.co.uk .

I’ve just read this great article on why golf needs Tiger Woods – give it a read and let me know what you think:

http://www.themaneater.com/stories/2011/4/12/golf-needs-tiger/

Have a great day 🙂

James

My Tips For The Masters

So with The Masters starting tomorrow, a lot of golf fans will be getting ready to place their bets, and use their golfing knowledge to try and take a few quid off the bookies over the weekend!

I have placed bets on this famous tournament for the last few years (with varying results!) and these are my tips for this year.

I’ve gone for Phil Mickelson as my tip to win. He has had three top ten finishes out of eight events so far this season  and has won the tournament on three previous occasions, including last year when his winning score of -16 was one of the best Masters scores ever recorded. He will also be looking to equal the records of Arnold Palmer and Tiger Woods, who have each won the tournament on four occasions. He is the favourite at 6/1, displacing Tiger,  who has been favourite every year for as long as I can remember!

You can see some press conference coverage of both Phil and Tiger by clicking here.

I also like the look of the American, Matt Kuchar. He is having a solid enough season and is great value at 33/1.

I have also backed the following players each way – Luke Donald (25/1), Hunter Mahan (28/1), Ricky Fowler (66/1), Brandt Snedeker (125/1), and Bo Van Pelt (175/1) so if a couple of those players can finish in the top five places I’ll be very happy…

Let me know who your money is on…

(All odds quoted are from www.bet365.com)

A Beginners Guide To Golf Equipment – Part Two

Welcome to the second part of my Beginners Guide to Golf Equipment.

This week I’m going to talk about the mid-range irons through to the wedges.

As I explained in my last post, as the irons get higher in number, so their shafts get shorter and the club faces become more lofted. The shorter the shaft and the greater the loft, so the easier the ball is to hit.

However just hitting the ball is one thing, but to gain distance you will need to sacrifice loft, and the four and five irons provide a nice middle-ground to be able to do this.

Whereas beginners and intermediate players may struggle with a 3-iron, the 4 and 5-irons have shorter shafts and so are easier to hit, but will still guarantee you some distance if you strike the ball decently.  

Another option for a similar distance would be to use a 7 Wood. This would give you the power of hitting with a wood rather than an iron, but also sacrifices a little bit of the control that an iron gives you, particularly as your game improves and you learn to put backspin on the ball.

The first clubs that beginners are encouraged to learn with are 6 and 7-irons. This is primarily because they are in the mid-range and will give you a realistic feel of the ‘average’ golf club, and also combine the right amount of loft with the right amount of distance for a beginner to practise with, and also gain an understanding of the game with.

A good use for these clubs is also to try just half-swings or ¾ swings to vary the distance on the shots, and give you more control initially over your swing.

A 7-iron is also an ideal club to use for the ‘bump and run’ shot. This shot takes some perfecting, but is primarily used to keep the ball deliberately low – for example when there is a strong wind blowing across the course. In these conditions it may make sense to hit a ‘punchy’ 7-iron low and hard, as opposed to a lofted 8 or 9-iron which could get blown off course by the weather.

In good conditions though, the 8 and 9-irons come into their own for playing attacking shots into the green. The loft gives you the control needed to land the ball as close to the hole as possible.

As above, backspin may also be used to stop the ball from rolling forwards to far once it lands. Backspin comes from striking the back of the ball before the turf. A good tip is to keep the grooves on your iron clubs as clear from dirt as possible, as it’s these that help generate the backspin as they strike the ball. I find the using a tee works really well to do this – you can then use a towel to wipe the club face down afterwards.

Good players will also use a 9-iron from the fringe area around the green, or from longer grass, where both power and control are required.

So finally for this post, let’s take a look at the wedges, starting with the Pitching Wedge, which comes in a variety of lofts, just to confuse you!

The main aim of the pitching wedge is to play shots into the green from less than 100 yards, and the lofts will generally vary from 50 to 53 degrees – as above, the greater the loft, the more height you will generate, and the greater the control you will have.

For shots even closer to the green, some players will also consider the use of a Sand Wedge.  As per its title, it is primarily designed to be used from the bunker, and is weighted along the lower edge of the blade to help with the momentum of the shot as it is played. When not being played from the sand, this wedge is also great for generating huge amounts of backspin, ideal when the hole is placed on top of a ridge, or with little room for error, but this is a shot that test even the most experienced of golfers.

James Irons Golf

The majority of professionals will also carry a Lob Wedge in their bag, for those even more precise shots close to the green. This club will have a loft of up to 60 degrees to generate even more height and control, but very little distance.

So there’s just one more club to cover and that’s the putter – we’ll take a look at that in more detail next week, along with other golfing equipment that will help you in your quest for the perfect round!

In the meantime, if you have any questions about this post or any other aspect of the game, then please drop me a line at james@jamesironsgolf.co.uk .

Keeping Fit Will Benefit Your Golf Performance

I just read this great article on how keeping fit will help your golf game – here it is and I hope you enjoy reading it too…

 

A Beginners Guide To Golf Equipment – Part One

In my last blog post I covered the basic rules and etiquette of golf.

In the post I’m going to cover how and when to use which clubs, starting with woods and the long irons.

Golf clubs have come a long way in recent years in terms of design, build and the technology applied to their development.

Back when the game was first invented, in the 1500’s,  a set of clubs would generally feature a ‘longnose’ for driving, a ‘fairway club’ for mid range shots, a ‘spoon’ for shorter shots and the famous niblick for around the green. The putter back then was known as a ‘cleek’. The shafts of the clubs were generally made from hickory.

Steel shafts came into fashion in the 1920’s, before in the 1980’s more technologically advanced materials such as graphite and titanium became very popular – not least because of their weight – considerably lighter than steel and therefore easier to swing (and carry around!).

Although as you would expect, clubs are far more advanced than they have ever been, the general idea behind each club hasn’t changed much at all since the invention of the game.

The rules today state that you can have 14 clubs in your bag for the round.

So let’s take a look at each of those clubs, starting with the driver.

The driver is used almost always off the tee and is the club you use to obtain as much distance as possible. A typical use of the driver is on a Par 4 or Par 5 whole, where the first shot needs to travel as far as possible to give you more control when using a more lofted club for your next shot towards the green.

In terms of actual length, the driver will be the longest club in your bag, and the least lofted – ie the angle of the face of the club will be steeper than any of your other clubs (typically between 7 and 12 degrees).

It will probably be the most expensive club that you purchase – drivers can cost from £30 to over £500 for a top brand such as Callaway or Taylor Made.

Driver

 
The driver is a tough club to master using, and the margin for error can be small for even the most experienced golfer. Therefore many beginners and intermediate players may prefer to use a 3 wood or 5 wood off the tee to start with.

These clubs are more ‘forgiving’, are shorter in length and have greater loft so the ball stands more chance of going higher when you hit it. You can also use one of these clubs of the fairway with a good lie, giving you more power than using an iron. There is also a 7-wood, although this is used less frequently by the average golfer.

Although these clubs are referred to as ‘woods’, you won’t find many made of actual wood these days – they are almost always made of metallic material such as titanium or steel.

Now we move onto the irons, which are numbered from 1-9 according to the angle of the face – the lower the number the steeper the face. And the steeper the face, the more difficult the club is to hit.

The 1 iron is known to all golfers as the most difficult club to use. American Golfer Lee Trevino once said:

“If you are caught on a golf course during a storm and are afraid of lightning, hold up a 1 iron. Not even God can hit a 1 iron”

I wouldn’t recommend the use of a 1 iron or 2 iron for beginners or intermediate players – I would say that using a 3 wood or 5 wood represents a better option for you at this stage.

Finally for this post, let’s take a look at the 3 iron – the longest iron in a standard modern set of clubs. To be honest, it’s still not the easiest club to hit but is the easiest of the long irons at least, and perhaps worth a go off the tee on a long par 3.  Most modern irons have what’s known as a ‘cavity back’. This means that the back of the club has been hollowed-out, as opposed to just a block of metal. This creates a larger ‘sweet-spot’ which means that there is more chance of hitting the ball cleanly and further.

I’ll talk about this more next week, along with an introduction to the mid-irons and wedges.

If you have any questions in the meantime, please drop me a line by clicking here.

 

 

The Basic Rules Of Golf

Learning to play golf is not just about picking up a club and hitting a ball – far from it. Of course fundamentally that’s the physical aspect of the game, using one of a variety of clubs to hit a ball into a hole a few hundred yards away, but there are also rules and ettiquette to follow too.

The beauty of golf is that although you can play against one, two or three other people at once, you are also all playing against the course, and so every course you play on adds a totally different dimension to every game of golf that you play.

A standard golf course is made up of 18 holes (although Dukes Meadows Golf Club, where I am based, is a challenging nine-hole course, although you can always go round twice!). The first shot on each hole is usually hit from a tee, in an area where different markers indicate whereabouts you should hit the ball from. There are separate markers for gents, ladies, and also professionals.

The course will more than likely be covered in hazards which you will need to try and avoid hitting – for example bunkers, rough or longer grass, and the dreaded water. The place you want to be is the fairway – closely-mown grass that usually runs length-ways down the centre of the hole that you’re playing.

James Irons Golf

Try And Stay Out Of The Bunker!

The hole itself will be on the green – a section of even more closely-mown grass  – where you will look to putt the ball home. You can see the hole from a distance represented by a flag with the number of the hole usually written on it. The flags are usually yellow or red.

So your aim is to get from the tee to the hole in as few shots as possible – the combined total of shots that you take makes up your total score, and so if you take less shots than your opponent, you win the game – simple!

There are a number of golfing terms regarding scoring that even if you’re not familiar with playing golf, you probably would have heard of. These usually refer to the number of shots you have taken on each hole either side of the par for the hole. Holes are usually par 3, 4 or 5 – these are based on a combination of difficulty and length, and you are aiming to take a minimum of that number of shots per hole. The par for the course is the par for each hole multiplied by the number of holes on the course.

If you take one shot less than the par of the hole to get your ball down, this is called a birdie. If you take one shot more than the par of the hole, this is called a bogey. Please see a full list of these terms below.

Albatross: Three shots less than par
Eagle: Two shots less less than par
Birdie: One shot less less than par
Bogey: One shot more than par
Double bogey: Two shots more than par
Triple bogey: Three shots more than par

At the end of the game, your total score is balanced against the par for the course. So if the par for the course is 70, and you shoot 68, you are 2 under-par for the round. If you shoot 80, you are ten over par. When playing enough times, you will eventually gain a handicap – effectively the average number of shots you take to go around above par. This enables you to play on equal terms against the most experienced golfer.

As a professional, I don’t have a handicap at all, so if I played against someone with a ’10’ handicap, 10 shots are deducted from their overall score in order to make the competition fair for ow you were able to play against the course on the day for your ability.

Golf has a great tradition of sportsmanship, and often honesty is required in terms of admitting how many shots you have taken per hole – only in major tournaments will you find a referee or umpire.

Once the ball is in play you should not touch it with anything other than the club, and only then when taking a shot. This can be particularly tricky in the long grass or sand! If you land in the water you can choose a new ball and take a ‘drop’ in line with where the ball entered the water, but no nearer the hole.

There are a lot of other rules to follow but generally what you think seems right will be right.

In terms of ettiquette – it’s best to try and remember two things: respect the course and respect your fellow golfers.

For example you should never distract a fellow player as he takes a shot, try and remember to repair the pitch and look after / rake the bunkers, and also be careful when walking across the greens – it is considered disrespectful to walk across the path that your player needs to take to putt the ball into the hole.

I hope that gives you a good idea as an introduction to the rules of golf. For more advice please contact me directly by clicking here.